Postcard from Italy

This was my first trip to Europe since '91 so I was quite anxious-- but would return tomorrow if I had the opportunity--even though the red-eye over on Alitalia was miserable. (Andy said I was crazy to want to fly to Europe on vacation) With 8 other artists, I painted, ate, and explored southern Tuscany. We stayed at an Agriturismo "La Selvella" on a hillside near the medieval fortress town of Radicofani overlooking the Val d'Orcia and Mt. Amiata. The dry golden fields and vineyards remind me of California this time of year—with an addition of ancient towns perched on the hilltops. And no Silicon valley. The farmland is being preserved. So are the swallows. (one even contributed to one of my paintings) Repairmen are not allowed to disturb their nests. Pigeons, rooster, chickens and pigs resided nearby. There were sheep and cows in the fields at the top of the hill and brilliant rows of sunflowers, (all facing east) stretching to infinity. Plunking the laundry into the dryer at home (airconditioning rapidly accelerating the electric meter), I wish I were back at La Selvella just so I could pin up my laundry to dry on the rack with the golden view of the Val d'Orcia and swallow choreography.

Experienced pre-Palio (horse-race) medieval pagentry in Sienna. A day in Florence.  Pitigliano--prow of this ancient cobbled city forges through turbulent seas of vegetation far below. Layers of civilizations. Etruscan tombs in Chiusi; our guide had just returned from Santa Rosa, CA. Met 3 people from San Jose in La Foce garden. Etruscan tombs are everywhere. Sometimes burrowed into a hillside and now used as "cantinas" (garage-sheds). Medieval houses were built on top and deep in the ground the tombs provided refrigeration, (valuable artifacts and urns long ago "redistributed"). A different way of life. Cetona twilight, people, old, young and inbetween gathered in the piazza; children chasing each other; boys soccer at one end and football at other end. Teens horsing around by their motorcycles, oldmen at tables talking and drinking grapa; grandmothers watching grand children. People so friendly. Last day in Radicofani we bought some of the fabulous local pecorino from Silvana the "cheese lady" who insisted on giving me a bottle of wine to toast her (we did on the rooftop terrace of our hotel in Rome). I will be sad when those medieval hill towns stop flickering through my dreams. I hope through painting I can prolong the pleasure. The food! Our hostess was an amazing cook of classic Tuscan fare. I could not resist. So stuffed that I had to walk each night to the top of the drive (their dear dog, Winnie shepherding me through the dark under the intense stars) so that I could sleep.  At home I'd been trying to cut back on carbs--just one egg for breakfast, etc. Rarely drink wine at home. In Tuscany I had crossants, meats, cheese and 2 cafe lattes every morning--Multi course lunches and dinners, lots of wine and gelato. I couldn't believe that when I got home the scale said I had lost 2 lbs. Did I walk that much--or did the food just agree with my metabolism? 2 days in Rome. Awed by thousands of years of historical presence and magnificent art (inspite of hawkers nipping at tourist heels). Visited Sistine chapel the morning I returned home!

Even the bi-polar interactions and expectations of 9 artists provided intriguing piquancy. The experience was truly a feast for body and soul. 

Ciao, Mary

Landscapes from Tuscany